Category Archives: 2-Taos

Onate, plus ABQ, Santa Fe & Taos news

Re: the boxed text “Acoma vs. Onate: Grudge Match,” there was an interesting follow-up story in the New York Times, in which the man who sawed off the foot in 1997 met with a reporter and showed him the piece. The man remains anonymous. It’s a good story, set against the context of recent controversies around Confederate memorial statues.

Otherwise, in Albuquerque:
–Sad news: Stevie’s Happy Bikes is closed in Corrales! But still open for mobile services.
–Bad news: Sophia’s Place is closed!
–Good news: Dennis Apodaca, the chef-owner of Sophia’s, reopened in the Imperial Building downtown as Maya Cuisine. (In the book, it says to look out for a branch of Sophia’s Place here…so this is at least partially correct. Just hard to recognize if you don’t know Apodaca by name.) I wasn’t able to go, but it looks great and has high scores from Gil Garduno.
–Bonus news: branch of Monk’s Corner, which sells goodies from the Christ in the Desert Monastery in Abiquiu, also opened in the Imperial Building.

In/around Santa Fe:
–The Children’s Museum has reopened.
–In summer (May-Oct), Valles Caldera lets in only 35 cars a day to drive up into the reserve (past the visitors’ center), and no more vehicles are allowed in in the last two hours. Elk hunting is now allowed, so that’s going on September-October.

In Taos:
–There’s now a super-hip vintage-trailer hotel (“and starlight campground”) across from Taos Mesa Brewing: Hotel Luna Mystica.

Restaurant changes

A few updates:

Albuquerque:
The Daily Grind coffee place has moved, to 4340 Cutler Ave NE (waaayyy away!), and the old space is called A&B Lunch Box, with a few of the same menu items.

Santa Fe:
Tree House cafe is closed moved to DeVargas Mall (thx for the correction to the correction, Kelly). Now it’s In the old location is a promising-looking coffee roaster, Ikonik.
The Legal Tender in Lamy is closed, but might reopen with new owners?

Taos:
Lula’s is closed.

Taos changes

Fernandez de Taos bookstore/newsstand is closed.

Parks Gallery moved from Bent Street to Paseo del Pueblo Norte, just north of the intersection with Kit Carson Road, on the west side of the street.

Laughing Horse hotel/hostel is closed.

Rellenos Café is now La Cueva, though the menu and food is largely the same.

Loka coffeehouse is shut. It’s now Stella’s, an Italian restaurant.

Zebadiah’s in Angel Fire now goes just by Zeb’s.

The Angel Fire visitor center has moved. Look for it on Hwy 434, just south of the T-intersection with Angel Fire Rd.

Correction: Wired? Internet café is behind Albertson’s, not Raley’s.

Miscellaneous Taos changes

Fernandez de Taos bookstore has moved around the corner, onto Paseo del Pueblo Norte just next World Cup coffee.

The road running along the Rio Grande gorge on the west side has been paved, so you can head down this way and then jog over to Ojo Caliente and on south to Santa Fe–another scenic route, with potential for a hot-springs break! Look for the turn off US 64, about a mile west of the gorge.

Taos restaurants

Joseph’s Table is shut! Sad. Sabor de Antonio, a Mexican-style seafood and steak place, is now in the space–which is funny, because this is the second time Antonio has taken over Joseph’s Table’s old space.

Dragonfly Cafe is no longer open for breakfast, except for Sunday brunch. Now it does lunch and dinner (and is closed Tues).

Guadalupe Cafe and the Sustaining Cultures bookstore is shut.

Maverick County Food Co. is shut–it’s now a Japanese place.

Apple Tree is shut.

Byzantium is substantially cheaper than it used to be.

Antonio’s has reopened next to where Guadalupe Cafe used to be, with his good Mexican menu–roast lamb, cochinita pibil.

Taos lodging

The Laughing Horse Inn is no longer particularly cheap, which is odd. I now think the Taos Inn has one of the better deals for solo travelers.

The Paragon Inn has changed names and is embroiled in a bit of a local scandal, and I can’t really bring myself to recommend the place.

Mountain Light no longer functions as a B&B, just a longer-term retreat center.

Shuttle Service to Taos

Taos is jumping on the successful Rail Runner link between ABQ and Santa Fe: Starting June 4, Taos Express will run a shuttle bus will between Taos and the Santa Fe Rail Runner depot, timed with the train’s arrival, on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Round-trip price is $10, and you can transfer to the Taos Chile Line town bus for free.

Recreation in Taos

The Kit Carson Park Ice Rink (p. 114) is no longer, nor is Don Fernando Swimming Pool. The Taos Youth & Family Center, 407 Paseo del Canon, on the south side, has combined both of these functions, with a bigger indoor pool, as well as an ice rink–probably better for the community, but less fun for visitors, as the ice rink is no longer outdoors and easily accessible.

Taos hotel change

Budget Host (p. 115) has a fresh coat of paint and wireless Internet access. Prices are now squarely in the $50–100 category—a double room is about $65 now. But it’s still the cleanest budget motel in Taos. Try to get one of the back-facing rooms, for less traffic noise, and if you want a non-smoking room, make sure it’s adjacent to other non-smoking rooms, because the walls are thin, and the smoke smell can seep through.

Lunch in Red River

Texas Reds (p. 126) is up and running, rebuilt after its fire. But it’s open only for dinner, starting at 5 p.m. I just cruised through town during lunch, and tried Mountain Treasures, a little gallery/café just west of Brandenburg Park, across from The Lift condos. The deli sandwiches were good, and used homemade bread.

Taos restaurant news

Momentitos de la Vida (p. 122) is closed. It has been replaced by something called Sabroso—not sure yet if it’s good.

Sheva Café (p. 120) has moved into the Overland Sheepskin Co. shopping complex, up the highway, closer to the “old blinking light” intersection, on the east side of the road.

Antonio’s (p. 121) is still serving Mexican dishes—but they’ve been moved to the back side of the menu, and the New Mexican stuff given more prominence. Not a real change for the diner, as the food is just as tasty, but it’s funny to see that Antonio has had to cater more to local tastes. He has also opened Rellenos Café, on Paseo del Pueblo Sur, one block south of Kit Carson Road. Rellenos has the usual NM stuff, but also the yummy chiles en nogada, at a lower price than at the formal resto.

Xocoatl (p. 119) now shares space with a restaurant called La Folie, and has an entrance on Paseo del Pueblo Norte, just north of Kit Carson Road. The hours have changed too: Although the sign says they’re open for breakfast, the current hours are noon-3 and 6-9pm Tues-Sun (closed Mon).

Tim’s Chile Connection (p. 120) is more clearly signed as Tim’s Stray Dog Cantina, in the second-to-last entrance to the whole ski complex, as you go around the parking lot.

News from Taos

Rita’s (p. 122) has opened as a proper restaurant, down in Ranchos de Taos (4133 NM Hwy 68). I haven’t checked it out yet myself, but if the tamales are the same, I can’t imagine what could go wrong.

All summer long, there’s music on the plaza every Thursday from 6pm to 8pm–apparently a fun scene well attended by Taos residents, with dancing.

(Thanks to the folks at Taos Lodging for the update!)

Changing focus

Alma del Monte in Taos (p. 118) will no longer be functioning as a B&B after October 6, 2006–it’s shifting to a full house rental, for weddings, retreats, etc. So if this place sounds appealing, book your visit now…or plan on renting it out later with your whole gang of friends.