I have to admit, Sevilleta has always fallen by the wayside as I drive down to Bosque del Apache. This trip I finally detoured off the highway to see the Sevilleta visitors center. It has a great exhibit on Chihuahua Desert wildlife (including lots of taxidermy)–worth stopping for, as the Bosque del Apache info focuses almost entirely on birds.
El Rey Inn has changed owners, which worried me, but so far there have not been radical changes to the property. (The new website makes it look crazy-chic, but the rooms I saw were the same as always.)
Bodega Prime is an absolutely excellent cafe across the street from El Rey Inn. (And El Rey is currently serving their great pastries as the continental breakfast…but is in the middle of building a restaurant, so this may go away.) It’s a huge bonus to have such a good bakery away from the center of town.
Reader Todd wrote with two points:
- NO DOGS at Tent Rocks. Even if you promise to leave them in the car.
- The Museum Pass in Taos is no longer an option.
Reader Paul has some more very solid advice! I’ll be working these details into the next edition of the guide.
1. NM Rail Runner Train (p. 120). Current fares $9 OW, $10 day pass. Buy ticket either online or on the train. In Albuquerque, buses 250 and 50 connect the Alvarado train station to the ABQ airport Mon – Sat. Sundays there is no connection. Bus service is free by showing your valid train ticket. [This is covered in the back of the book, but not sure I noted that the bus is free with your Rail Runner ticket–very helpful!]
2. Sandia Shuttle Express — fare is now $30 OW. If one is taking the last run of the night, call the toll free number and let them know. Also, Sandia works in the opposite direction, picking up at your location in SF and delivering you to ABQ airport.
3. Santa Fe Public Library, 145 Washington Avenue, a block and a half north of the plaza, (505) 955-6781, https://santafelibrary.org/ . A great place to spend a rainy afternoon. Many out of town newspapers. A small but well stocked bookstore, paperbacks $1, hardcovers $2. I don’t remember your mentioning it, however the library is marked on the map on p. 77.
4. Ghost Ranch, p. 113. Perhaps worth more emphasis is that GR has many week-long programs mostly emphasizing the arts (painting, photography, jewelry making), the outdoors, and ministry (given GR’s connection to the Presbyterian church). Most but not all programs happen in the summer. [There’s a bit about this in the back of the book under Classes.]
5. Music on the Hill, free concerts in Santa Fe on Wednesday evenings at St. John’s College, Museum Hill area, Santa Fe. http://www.sjc.edu/programs-and-events/santa-fe/music-hill-2016/ I spent two weeks at St. John’s College last month and noticed that people turned out from all over to attend these concerts. Incidentally (shameless plug), St. John’s College is one of last remaining college curricula based on the Western and now Eastern classics. It has campuses in Santa Fe and Annapolis.
6. Santa Fe International Hostel, p. 94. You describe it well, particularly the “dimly-lit” part, however, I love the place and would stay there even if I had the money to stay somewhere fancier. Why? Intriguing people of all ages from all over the world stay there. Also: free food (but check the expiri date) and no taxes added to the price. Plus, doing the morning chore helps establish a bond to the place. So might you consider dropping the “not the worst” phrase? The hostel deserves better. [Always good to get firsthand reports from hotels, as I never have the time to stay in each and every one myself. Thank you so much!]
Reader Paul writes:
As an extreme budget traveler, I use public transit all I can. You might consider mentioning that transportation between Santa Fe and Los Alamos is available M-F (only) for a mere $3 cash each way via New Mexico Park and Ride. Don’t be deterred by the name — one need not have any vehicle to park to use this service. In Los Alamos, the Mesa Library stop puts one right in the midst of historic, Manhattan project Los Alamos. And the buses are big and cushy too.
See this website for more
and especially the schedule at
It’s the “blue route” that I am referring to. (Don’t confuse that with the Blue Bus that is completely different.)
One more point: for $10 one can buy a day pass on the NM Rail Runner (pay cash once on board) and so travel between Albuquerque and Santa Fe and back again (in the same day) with free passage on buses in both of those cities. It’s a great way to see the state and cheap too.
The structure of this parkland has changed — it’s now run by the National Parks Service, and costs a flat $20/car to enter. The range of activities is smaller, however.
Burt’s Tiki Lounge is moving to Central.
Casita Chamisa is closed.
Flying Star downtown is closed.
Le Cafe Miche has closed.
Route 66 Malt Shop is closed.
Satellite Coffee is no longer on Central.
The A Store has closed.
Sophia’s Place will soon be moving from N 4th to the Imperial Building on Silver, downtown.
The Los Alamos History Museum has moved temporarily, across the road to the community center at 475 20th Street, while renovations are being done.
The Pajarito Environmental Education Center has moved into its new home at 2600 Canyon Rd.
Santa Fe Children’s Museum is closed. (Officially temporarily, but no reopening date is set.)
Marble Tap Room is closed.
Chuck Jones Studio Gallery has moved to 126 W. Water St.
Eight Modern gallery has moved to 1601 Paseo de Peralta.
La Fonda hotel has undergone some terrible renovations in the lobby, so it’s not so nice and old-feeling anymore. The lobby bar is a lot more generic.
Ecco Gelato moved down and across the street.
Santa Fe Baking Co. is closed.
St. Michael’s Laundry is closed.
I don’t usually rave about new things, BUT: MEOW WOLF IS AMAZING.
Barela Fine Arts has closed.
Horse Feathers has closed.
Moonlight hikes at Taos Ski Valley are now always on the night of the full moon (not the Saturday closest).
The Taos Blizzard baseball team is no more. Sad face!
Hatcha’s in Angel Fire is closed.
La Risa Cafe is closed.
Madison Winery is closed.
The excellent trolley tour is now based at the Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town (800 Rio Grande Blvd. NW), rather than down at the plaza.
This restaurant in Taos closed last year.
This bar in Santa Fe (a branch of Marble Brewery in ABQ) has moved off the plaza and over to the Luna complex at 505 Cerrillos Road.
Instead of the Santa Fe museum pass for $20, there’s now a statewide New Mexico Culture Pass for $25.
It gets you into museums in Albuquerque (the Hispanic cultural center and the natural history museum) and the Coronado and Jemez historic sites, and it’s good for a whole year. A pretty good deal, certainly for state residents, but also not too bad for visitors, even if you’re only visiting a few museums.
This bar in Santa Fe is closed.
The church at Laguna is now open officially only 9am-3pm Mon-Fri. When I dropped by, Alfred Pino wasn’t around, though the woman in the church office said he still comes by from time to time.
The Cerrillos Hills B&B is closed.
In Mountainair, the Shaffer Hotel has new management, as of this spring, and looks in great shape again. Excellent homemade pie in the dining room, and it’s open 6am-9pm most days.
The Taos farmers market now takes place on the plaza.
Anaconda bar, in El Monte Sagrado, can no longer really be called a boite–it has pretty nasty bright lighting now, and is not particularly atmospheric.
The Candy Lady has moved, just one block, to 424 San Felipe St. NW. (The sneaky thing is that a different candy shop took over the old location–don’t be fooled.)
Hispaniae, the shop in Old Town, is closing.
Routes, the bike-rental company, has moved to a spot in Old Town: 404 San Felipe St. NW.
The A Store, a shop in Nob Hill, has moved a few blocks, to 3339 Central NE.
Stevie’s Happy Bikes, in Corrales, has moved a little bit north, to 4685 Corrales Rd.
Cafe Vingt Cing (end of the Turquoise Trail, at I-25 near Santa Fe) is closed.
Bonus opening: Mas is now open in the Hotel Andaluz in downtown Albuquerque. The chef is James Campbell Caruso, whose Boca in Santa Fe is so nice. Spanish tapas, etc. In my experience at his Santa Fe places, the tapas are the way to go. Whole sandwiches (at lunch) are a little meh.
The Hill Diner is closed. Probably for a while now…
On the plus side, Pajarito Brewpub has opened, and it looks pretty popular. It’s in the same mini-mall area as Blue Window Bistro, kitty-corner across the parking lot.
The Legal Tender, the saloon across the road from the Lamy train station outside Santa Fe, is open again. Here’s the Facebook page.
In Los Alamos, the fantastic salvage store The Black Hole is closed.
I mentioned earlier that Trattoria Nostrani had changed to a French place, Vivre. Now that’s closed too, as is the ramen place adjacent, Shibumi Ramenya.
I also mentioned that Bobcat Bite closed. Happily, it has reopened as Santa Fe Bite, in Garrett’s Desert Inn, at the corner of Old Santa Fe Trail and Alameda. Same great burgers, big new space, and everyone seems really happy.
A few updates:
The Daily Grind coffee place has moved, to 4340 Cutler Ave NE (waaayyy away!), and the old space is called A&B Lunch Box, with a few of the same menu items.
Tree House cafe
is closed moved to DeVargas Mall (thx for the correction to the correction, Kelly). Now it’s In the old location is a promising-looking coffee roaster, Ikonik.
The Legal Tender in Lamy is closed, but might reopen with new owners?
Lula’s is closed.
If you’re visiting NM this summer, keep an eye on the wildfire situation. This blog (nmfireinfo.com) posts bulletins from the Forest Service.
Two current fires could have an impact on your outdoorsy plans: the Tres Lagunas fire is only 10 miles north of Pecos, and a fire north of Silver City has led to evacuations of Hillsboro, on Hwy. 152.
!!! Tragedy! This restaurant on the edge of Santa Fe has closed, due to a “lease dispute.” That might leave the door open for reopening elsewhere…
The bar/restaurant in Taos (not the intersection itself!) is closed.
The ranch north of Taos is closed to visitors! And has been for a while. Sorry for the very, very late notice.
This restaurant in Santa Fe is shut.
Willee’s blues/jazz club has closed.
Azur restaurant is closed.
Trattoria Nostrani is now Vivre–same management and chef, but with a French menu, rather than Italian. I haven’t had a chance to eat there yet.
Earlier, I reported that Joseph Wrede had moved to Tomme (from Tules’ on Palace). But that’s not true anymore! The new chef at Tomme is Daniel Johnson…and I have no idea where Joseph Wrede has gone. Rats.
In non-food-news, Toyopolis has moved around the corner, to 150 Washington Street.
Bad news: beloved Aqua Santa shut last fall!
Good news: Charles Dale (formerly of the great Encantado) has reopened it as Bouche Bistro.
A helpful reader just alerted me that the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum in Santa Fe is no longer free on Friday evenings. Now it’s only on the first Friday of the month, to NM residents with ID.
Also, the Sandia Peak Tramway in Albuquerque closes for maintenance periodically–so it’s inaccurate to say it runs “frequently all year round.” If your trip falls outside the winter ski season, be sure to call ahead to check the schedule. The maintenance schedule is also posted on the website now. Next closing is November 4-15.
This restaurant in Santa Fe closed last summer. (Sorry to be so slow!)
I’m just reading Andrea Feucht’s Food Lovers’ Guide to Santa Fe, Albuquerque & Taos, released last month. Because Real Food Nation wasn’t included, I suspected something had happened to it! Looking forward to my trip in April to investigate some new places, though.
Joseph Wrede is no longer at Tules’ on Palace (which has been renamed The Palace, incidentally). Now he’s at a new restaurant called Tomme, at 229 Galisteo.
I knew something wasn’t right at the Palace when I clicked on the menu and saw fried calamari! So not Wrede.
This steakhouse/bar on South NM Hwy 14 (outside of Albuquerque) is closed. Goodbye to a local institution!
This restaurant and resort in Tesuque, just north of Santa Fe, is now a Four Seasons property.
The real news is that the chef previously in charge of Terra has gone, so I can’t vouch for the menu any longer. Proceed with caution!
Jo’s Place is closed. (That’s OK–the family’s two other good restaurants still rock the same block.)
Church of Beethoven is now called Sunday Chatter. (Not sure what happened there, but I guess it’s better not to know about chamber music feuds!)
(Thanks to the New York Times team for updating my 36 Hours in Albuquerque piece and finding these changes!)
Oh boy! When you get off the train in Lamy (maybe one of the coolest places to get off a train in the U.S…), the Legal Tender restaurant is now open. This also gives a nice reason for a bike ride down the rail trail from Santa Fe.
The info is here.
And, of course, before the book is even out, there’s at least one change I’m aware of: the new Joseph Wrede restaurant in Santa Fe is now called just The Palace. (It says Tules’ on Palace in the book.) It hadn’t quite opened yet when I was there–go and tell me how it is!
The Albuquerque branch of this taco place is closed. But the Santa Fe ones are still open.
The Northern New Mexico museum in Questa is closed.
Questa Cafe is closed.
Fernandez de Taos bookstore/newsstand is closed.
Parks Gallery moved from Bent Street to Paseo del Pueblo Norte, just north of the intersection with Kit Carson Road, on the west side of the street.
Laughing Horse hotel/hostel is closed.
Rellenos Café is now La Cueva, though the menu and food is largely the same.
Loka coffeehouse is shut. It’s now Stella’s, an Italian restaurant.
Zebadiah’s in Angel Fire now goes just by Zeb’s.
The Angel Fire visitor center has moved. Look for it on Hwy 434, just south of the T-intersection with Angel Fire Rd.
Correction: Wired? Internet café is behind Albertson’s, not Raley’s.
There’s now a tourist info office in the Rail Runner depot in the Santa Fe rail yard–handy.
The directions to this retreat center in Abiquiu are not quite right. After a few miles on County Rd. 0155, you must turn right through a marked gate (always open), then continue another mile or so to a fork. Bear left to get to the Dar al Islam gate. Bear right to get to Plaza Blanca.
Plaza Café is closed temporarily, due to a fire, but should reopen by the end of 2011.
Corazon bar/club is closed.
The Ore House bar has moved off the plaza. It’s now around the corner at 139 W. San Francisco Street (formerly/still sorta Milagro).
Annapurna has moved to 1620 St. Michael’s Drive.
Linda Durham gallery is shut.
Lew Allen Contemporary on Palace is no longer strictly contemporary—all of that has moved to a larger space in the rail yard (1613 Paseo de Peralta).
Embudo Station in Embudo appears to be shut.
Matilda’s restaurant in Espanola is closed.
The shop Que Chula is no longer open in Nob Hill—it only runs an online shop now.
Atomic Cantina downtown is closed.
The Aztec Motel has been demolished. Sad!
The office in Santa Fe has moved–it’s no longer on Rodeo Road, but out of the city a little way.
The address is 301 Dinosaur Trail. Where is that, you might ask? It’s just south of where Highway 14 meets I-25. (People who know the area will know it got its name from the dinosaur sculptures there.)
Phone number is 505/954-2002, and office hours are 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri.