4th edition is here!

STAB4For the first time in FULL COLOR, this edition of Santa Fe, Taos & Albuquerque looks fabulous! I’m very pleased.

As usual, there’s already a correction: Shaffer Hotel in Mountainair is closed, once again.

Special shout-out to all the folks who provided photos and helped make it look so fabulous!

New Mexico Culture Pass

Instead of the Santa Fe museum pass for $20, there’s now a statewide New Mexico Culture Pass for $25.

It gets you into museums in Albuquerque (the Hispanic cultural center and the natural history museum) and the Coronado and Jemez historic sites, and it’s good for a whole year. A pretty good deal, certainly for state residents, but also not too bad for visitors, even if you’re only visiting a few museums.

Outside Albuquerque

The church at Laguna is now open officially only 9am-3pm Mon-Fri. When I dropped by, Alfred Pino wasn’t around, though the woman in the church office said he still comes by from time to time.

The Cerrillos Hills B&B is closed.

In Mountainair, the Shaffer Hotel has new management, as of this spring, and looks in great shape again. Excellent homemade pie in the dining room, and it’s open 6am-9pm most days.

Albuquerque changes

The Candy Lady has moved, just one block, to 424 San Felipe St. NW. (The sneaky thing is that a different candy shop took over the old location–don’t be fooled.)

Hispaniae, the shop in Old Town, is closing.

Routes, the bike-rental company, has moved to a spot in Old Town: 404 San Felipe St. NW.

The A Store, a shop in Nob Hill, has moved a few blocks, to 3339 Central NE.

Stevie’s Happy Bikes, in Corrales, has moved a little bit north, to 4685 Corrales Rd.

Restaurants

Cafe Vingt Cing (end of the Turquoise Trail, at I-25 near Santa Fe) is closed.

Bonus opening: Mas is now open in the Hotel Andaluz in downtown Albuquerque. The chef is James Campbell Caruso, whose Boca in Santa Fe is so nice. Spanish tapas, etc. In my experience at his Santa Fe places, the tapas are the way to go. Whole sandwiches (at lunch) are a little meh.

Santa Fe Food

I mentioned earlier that Trattoria Nostrani had changed to a French place, Vivre. Now that’s closed too, as is the ramen place adjacent, Shibumi Ramenya.

I also mentioned that Bobcat Bite closed. Happily, it has reopened as Santa Fe Bite, in Garrett’s Desert Inn, at the corner of Old Santa Fe Trail and Alameda. Same great burgers, big new space, and everyone seems really happy.

Restaurant changes

A few updates:

Albuquerque:
The Daily Grind coffee place has moved, to 4340 Cutler Ave NE (waaayyy away!), and the old space is called A&B Lunch Box, with a few of the same menu items.

Santa Fe:
Tree House cafe is closed moved to DeVargas Mall (thx for the correction to the correction, Kelly). Now it’s In the old location is a promising-looking coffee roaster, Ikonik.
The Legal Tender in Lamy is closed, but might reopen with new owners?

Taos:
Lula’s is closed.

Fire Season

If you’re visiting NM this summer, keep an eye on the wildfire situation. This blog (nmfireinfo.com) posts bulletins from the Forest Service.

Two current fires could have an impact on your outdoorsy plans: the Tres Lagunas fire is only 10 miles north of Pecos, and a fire north of Silver City has led to evacuations of Hillsboro, on Hwy. 152.

More Santa Fe updates

Willee’s blues/jazz club has closed.

Azur restaurant is closed.

Trattoria Nostrani is now Vivre–same management and chef, but with a French menu, rather than Italian. I haven’t had a chance to eat there yet.

Earlier, I reported that Joseph Wrede had moved to Tomme (from Tules’ on Palace). But that’s not true anymore! The new chef at Tomme is Daniel Johnson…and I have no idea where Joseph Wrede has gone. Rats.

In non-food-news, Toyopolis has moved around the corner, to 150 Washington Street.

Hours updates

A helpful reader just alerted me that the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum in Santa Fe is no longer free on Friday evenings. Now it’s only on the first Friday of the month, to NM residents with ID.

Also, the Sandia Peak Tramway in Albuquerque closes for maintenance periodically–so it’s inaccurate to say it runs “frequently all year round.” If your trip falls outside the winter ski season, be sure to call ahead to check the schedule. The maintenance schedule is also posted on the website now. Next closing is November 4-15.

Albuquerque updates

Jo’s Place is closed. (That’s OK–the family’s two other good restaurants still rock the same block.)

Church of Beethoven is now called Sunday Chatter. (Not sure what happened there, but I guess it’s better not to know about chamber music feuds!)

(Thanks to the New York Times team for updating my 36 Hours in Albuquerque piece and finding these changes!)

The New Edition Is Here! (& a change)

It's waiting for you!

Hot off the presses: the third edition of Moon Santa Fe, Taos & Albuquerque is in stores now! I had a great time researching this last year, and got to do a bit more in-depth research than usual because I was also writing a story for The New York Times.

And, of course, before the book is even out, there’s at least one change I’m aware of: the new Joseph Wrede restaurant in Santa Fe is now called just The Palace. (It says Tules’ on Palace in the book.) It hadn’t quite opened yet when I was there–go and tell me how it is!

Taos changes

Fernandez de Taos bookstore/newsstand is closed.

Parks Gallery moved from Bent Street to Paseo del Pueblo Norte, just north of the intersection with Kit Carson Road, on the west side of the street.

Laughing Horse hotel/hostel is closed.

Rellenos Café is now La Cueva, though the menu and food is largely the same.

Loka coffeehouse is shut. It’s now Stella’s, an Italian restaurant.

Zebadiah’s in Angel Fire now goes just by Zeb’s.

The Angel Fire visitor center has moved. Look for it on Hwy 434, just south of the T-intersection with Angel Fire Rd.

Correction: Wired? Internet café is behind Albertson’s, not Raley’s.

Santa Fe changes

Plaza Café is closed temporarily, due to a fire, but should reopen by the end of 2011.

Corazon bar/club is closed.

The Ore House bar has moved off the plaza. It’s now around the corner at 139 W. San Francisco Street (formerly/still sorta Milagro).

Annapurna has moved to 1620 St. Michael’s Drive.

Linda Durham gallery is shut.

Lew Allen Contemporary on Palace is no longer strictly contemporary—all of that has moved to a larger space in the rail yard (1613 Paseo de Peralta).

Public Lands Information Center

The office in Santa Fe has moved–it’s no longer on Rodeo Road, but out of the city a little way.

The address is 301 Dinosaur Trail. Where is that, you might ask? It’s just south of where Highway 14 meets I-25. (People who know the area will know it got its name from the dinosaur sculptures there.)

Phone number is 505/954-2002, and office hours are 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri.

Shaffer Hotel

This place in Mountainair has changed hands, and the rooms have gotten pretty sketchy. I wouldn’t recommend pre-booking here–take a room only if you can inspect it beforehand.

The cafe seems to be open regularly, though, for late breakfast and lunch every day but Tuesday.

I also noticed Alpine Alley, just north of Mountainair’s main intersection–this looks like good coffee and light food.

North of Santa Fe

O Eating House, in Pojoaque, is now a fairly upscale Italian restaurant (but it has the same name). It looks good, if completely different!

The stock at Chimayo Trading Post has dwindled significantly. The owner (his partner passed away) is quite old and doesn’t seem to be restocking the place. Still, if you’ve never been, it’s worth a stop–there are still some treasures here.

In Chimayo, the separate Santo Nino de Atocha chapel has been spruced up and is open all the time now–it’s a bit more modern, but sweet. Take a peek inside, especially in the side chapel.

Santa Fe changes

As I noted before, the NM history museum is now open. Signage is not quite as detailed as I’d like, but otherwise it’s a nice introduction. The exhibits in the Palace of the Governors (now accessible via the history museum) are the same, fortunately–I find these more interesting.

Walking tours run by the museum go from mid-April to mid-October (not just in summer, like the book says). They last about two hours, and the route depends on who’s leading it, but it covers a couple of miles.

Linda Durham Gallery has moved away from Canyon Road, over to 1800 2nd Street.

Collected Works books has moved to the corner of Galisteo and Water, and now has a coffeeshop inside–lovely.

Adelante Casitas is back to being called Chapelle Street Casitas. Its online booking system is buggy–better to call.

Hotel St. Francis has been redone by the Heritage Hotels & Resorts group–it looks quite chic, but the rates have of course gone up. (The same group has redone the Hotel Plaza Real as well, which is great because that used to be a wasted dump.)

Willee’s bar is shut–it’s now called Corazon and books a lot of hipper live music.

Chispa! bar closes at 11pm now.

Green Palace teahouse is shut.

Carlos’ Gosp’l Cafe is shut. The space in the Design Center now sells NYC-style pizza by the slice–it looks good!

El Tesoro in Sanbusco Center is no longer particularly Salvadoran–the menu is more standard Mex-New-Mex, but everything looks good.

The Treehouse cafe moved to 1600 Lena Street (and unfortunately didn’t bring the nursery with it!).

The Blue Heron restaurant is shut.

Miscellaneous Taos changes

Fernandez de Taos bookstore has moved around the corner, onto Paseo del Pueblo Norte just next World Cup coffee.

The road running along the Rio Grande gorge on the west side has been paved, so you can head down this way and then jog over to Ojo Caliente and on south to Santa Fe–another scenic route, with potential for a hot-springs break! Look for the turn off US 64, about a mile west of the gorge.

Taos restaurants

Joseph’s Table is shut! Sad. Sabor de Antonio, a Mexican-style seafood and steak place, is now in the space–which is funny, because this is the second time Antonio has taken over Joseph’s Table’s old space.

Dragonfly Cafe is no longer open for breakfast, except for Sunday brunch. Now it does lunch and dinner (and is closed Tues).

Guadalupe Cafe and the Sustaining Cultures bookstore is shut.

Maverick County Food Co. is shut–it’s now a Japanese place.

Apple Tree is shut.

Byzantium is substantially cheaper than it used to be.

Antonio’s has reopened next to where Guadalupe Cafe used to be, with his good Mexican menu–roast lamb, cochinita pibil.

Taos lodging

The Laughing Horse Inn is no longer particularly cheap, which is odd. I now think the Taos Inn has one of the better deals for solo travelers.

The Paragon Inn has changed names and is embroiled in a bit of a local scandal, and I can’t really bring myself to recommend the place.

Mountain Light no longer functions as a B&B, just a longer-term retreat center.